Big Sur
Big Sur is a magical place, full of stunning views, dramatic weather, and a wild, untamable energy. It’s also a place that might not be around forever, thanks to the wrath of Mother Nature. I’ve split Big Sur into two parts because Highway 1 tends to close every few years due to landslides; this stretch of coast is literally crumbling into the ocean. And honestly, once you’ve driven the 1, it’s not something you really need to do again.
Getting There
Right now, there’s just one way in and out of this magical stretch of coastline. Carmel is your last real “city” before hopping on Highway 1, so it’s a good place to stock up on any last-minute essentials. From there, it’s about an hour’s drive along the iconic highway to reach the heart of Big Sur. Depending on road conditions, you might hit some one-way traffic controls or delays, but take a breath, enjoy the views, and trust that it’s all part of the journey. It’s worth every minute.
Lodging
Vacation rentals aren’t a thing in Big Sur. If you’re rolling with a bigger group, think about camping or find a motel with a shared common area where everyone can hang. There are plenty of private campgrounds around, but I’m only going to recommend the places I’ve actually stayed at.
Fernwood - This is my go-to stay in Big Sur. Fernwood has a little something for everyone—motel rooms, cabins, glamp-style tents, and even a couple of cozy cabins tucked away in the meadow. My favorite? One of the two rooms with a hot tub on the deck! What really makes Fernwood special is the bar and restaurant. After a full day of hiking or exploring, it’s the perfect spot to unwind—grab a solid meal, sip some local wine, and either settle into the cozy indoor bar or hang out on the big deck under the trees. Bonus: On most weekends, there’s live music. Locals come down from the hills, the bar fills up, and it turns into a great scene.
Big Sur River Inn - After Fernwood, this is my next favorite place to stay. About half the rooms are tucked along the river (peaceful and scenic), while the others are in a classic roadside motel setup across the highway. The on-site café is a great breakfast stop, and if the weather’s nice, grab a seat by the river. It’s incredibly relaxing. After a long hike, slipping your feet into the cold water is basically a Big Sur spa moment. Overall, a solid and dependable motel stay with a few lovely perks.
Pfiffer State Park - If you can snag a campsite here, you’re in luck—this place is gorgeous. Think national park-level beauty with well-spaced sites, lush surroundings, and nice, clean showers (a luxury when camping, let’s be honest). Just a heads-up: fire rules can change depending on the season. Big Sur has had its fair share of wildfires, so sometimes campfires aren’t allowed—even in the fire rings—which can be a bit of a letdown. Double-check before you pack the s’mores.
Glen Oaks - I wouldn’t recommend staying in the motor lodge side of this place; it just wasn’t worth the price. The bed was super uncomfortable, and while the mid-century furniture looked great, it definitely wasn’t made to be sat on. That said, the riverside cabins across the street are tucked into the redwoods, and morning walks around the property were kind of magical. I’d be willing to give those a try.
Ventana - This is Big Sur luxury at its finest. Since changing hands, it’s now an all-inclusive resort, but trust me, it’s so worth it. I treated myself to a solo birthday stay here years ago, and between the jaw-dropping views, heated pool, cozy bathhouse, and a restaurant that celebrates local flavors, it was the kind of trip you remember forever.
The spa? Absolutely not to be missed. Pro tip: Even if you’re not staying overnight, you can still soak up the magic—just book a spa treatment, and you’ll get access to the grounds and pool. It’s the perfect way to feel like a guest without the full splurge.
All vibes at Fernwood
Fernwood rocks!
The grounds at Glen Oaks are fantastic
Ventana for those that want to splurge
Hiking
The real reason I keep coming back to Big Sur? The hiking. The rugged cliffs, coastal air, and lush, winding trails never fail to reset my mind and body. It might sound cliché, but the views here are truly soul-cleansing. Most of the trails pack a serious uphill punch, which makes for a solid workout, and I’ve tackled nearly all of them (some more than once). Below, you’ll find a mix of my favorites, from leisurely strolls to challenging climbs.
I recommend stopping into the Big Sur Station visitor’s center to pick up some maps and get the lay of the land and what your options are for hikes I don’t mention. There are so many, and the staff here is super helpful.
Buzzards Roost Trail - I always like to kick off my Big Sur trips with this trail. It’s a great way to ease into the state park and soak up the scenery right away. You get a little bit of everything: towering redwoods, a river crossing, and the kind of ocean view that makes you stop in your tracks. There’s just enough elevation to get your heart rate up and your legs ready for whatever comes next. This trail is nicely shaded, too, so after getting to the top, you’ll be able to cool off in the shade on the way down.
Andrew Molera State Park Loop - This is one of those hikes that is the day. It’s long, a bit challenging, and absolutely worth the time. Be prepared; you might need to take your shoes off to cross the river, but honestly, that’s part of the fun. The views are beautiful, the journey is memorable, and it’s a perfect way to spend a big chunk of your day in Big Sur.
Ewoldson Trail - This is great to pair with a trip to McWay Falls and is the quintessential Big Sur hike - starting in the woods with narrow, steep switchbacks eventually giving way to the payoff or sweeping ocean views and sunny skies. There is a loop at the top, but it’s been closed, so check conditions before you go.
Partington Cove Trail - Marked by a green gate right off Highway 1, this trail is more of a dirt wagon road that winds down toward the ocean. Once you hit the bottom at Partington Creek, the path splits. Go right (north) for a quick walk to a rocky little beach (gorgeous, but don’t plan on getting too close to the water. It’s rough and not safe). Head left (south), and you’ll pass through a cool old tunnel that opens up to an overlook where ships used to load up back in the day. Definitely stop at the bench and enjoy the view, but don’t go past it The surf is wild and the rocks can be sketchy.
Ventana Fire Road - Technically, it’s called the Coast Ridge Road to Terrace Creek Trail, but to me, it’ll always be the Ventana Fire Road. It’s hands-down my favorite hike in Big Sur and one I come back to often. It’s about 8 miles round trip, though you can tack on extra miles at the top if you’re feeling it. What makes this hike so special is the shift: You start deep in the forest, and before you know it, you're climbing with ocean views up. Once you reach the top, you’re rewarded with a stunning, less-seen view of the Ventana Wilderness from the backside. Pro tip: You’ll drive up like you’re heading to the Ventana Resort, park in the secondary lot, and hop on the fire road from there.
Atop Buzzard's Roost
Views for days
Walk along the Big Sur River as you mount Buzzards Roost trail
A glimpse of the "backside" of Big Sur
Hikes giving you views from the top
Light playing in the trees on the Ewoldson Trail
Food & Drinks
It feels only right to start by acknowledging the loss of Big Sur Bakery, a true culinary gem. Some of the best meals I’ve ever had were in that cozy little dining room, from their wood-fired dinners to those unforgettable morning pastries. There is no doubt that it’s a big loss for the local food scene. That said, there are still some great spots worth visiting, and I’m excited to share my favorites.
Big Sur Taphouse - There’s nothing better than wrapping up a long hike with some fresh-caught fish tacos and an ice-cold beer (or cider) at the Big Sur Taphouse. If the weather’s nice, grab a seat on the backyard patio. It’s laid-back, sunny, and the perfect place to recharge. Or head inside, where it feels like a cozy little hobbit den, grab a board game, and settle in. It’s the kind of warm, welcoming spot that makes you want to stay a while.
Big Sur Deli - Attached to the Taphouse by a hallway, the deli is an underrated gem for stocking up when you roll into town. I always grab a premade sandwich for the backpack because nothing beats unwrapping it mid-hike as a reward. In the back, you’ll find souvenirs, too. So if the Big Sur magic hits you, treat yourself to a mug or sweatshirt featuring the iconic California condor.
Sierra Mar at Post Ranch Inn - If staying at Post Ranch Inn is in your budget, go for it. But even if it’s not, booking a lunch or dinner at Sierra Mar is still an unforgettable way to experience the place. The views alone are worth it, and the food? Next level.
Meals are pre-fixe and thoughtfully designed with ingredients straight from the on-site garden and surrounding farms. You’ll often find freshly harvested seaweed subtly worked into the dishes, one of those local touches that feels so uniquely Big Sur. The wine list is stacked, with standouts from the nearby Santa Lucia Highlands that really showcase the region’s terroir. Chat with the sommelier, and they’ll steer you right.
And if you notice someone nervously reaching for their pocket, you’re probably witnessing a proposal. They happen here all the time. Just know... according to the staff, the success rate hovers around 40%. So, fingers crossed.
Nepenthe - Nepenthe is a Big Sur classic, and for good reason. The views are absolutely stunning, the service is always warm, and the wine list is surprisingly great (they offer splits too, so you don’t have to commit to a full bottle). While the food isn’t what I’d call mind-blowing, it’s solid, and the sandwiches get a boost from creative sauces like tomato jam and basil aioli. It’s the kind of place where you linger a little longer than planned, soaking in the scenery after a long hike. Definitely worth a stop.
Be sure to time your Sierra Mar reservation with the sunset
Sweeping views at Post Ranch Inn
Nepenthe views
Sneak peek at the Sierra Mar menu
Activites
Beyond the hikes, the food, and the unbeatable Big Sur energy, there are a few standout spots that are well worth carving out time for. Some of them do require reservations, so it’s worth planning ahead to make sure you don’t miss out.
Point Sur Lighthouse - Here’s something you might not know about me: I love lighthouses. There’s just something about standing at the edge of the world, watching the ocean stretch endlessly in every direction; it gets me every time. (If you’re also a lighthouse enthusiast, check out my Oregon Coast trip for even more magic.)
The Point Sur lighthouse is a must. Perched solo on a hill like something out of a novel, it feels frozen in time. The grounds at the top have an old-world charm, and while you can’t reserve ahead, lining up is part of the experience—and totally worth it. Keep your eyes on the horizon while you’re up there; you just might spot some whales. Also, there are night tours and a special Halloween tour at the lighthouse that I’ve heard great things about so check that out!
Esalen - Founded in the 1960s as a center for human potential, Esalen is part spiritual retreat, part wellness wonderland, and I love it. I’ll admit, I was skeptical at first. It all sounded a little overhyped and maybe a bit too “woo woo” for me. But once I went, I was completely won over.
The soaking tubs are perched on the edge of a cliff, where waves crash below and steam curls into the air. Just a heads-up: while the tubs are technically clothing-optional, that’s basically code for everyone being fully nude. Embrace it. Don’t skip the post-soak shower either; it’s a moment in itself, with cedar and spruce-scented body wash and the Pacific thundering beneath you.
If you go, definitely book an Esalen massage; it’s amazing, trust me. I always try to arrive early for breakfast, soak, get my massage, and then savor a nourishing lunch (most of the food is grown right on the property). In the afternoon, if there's a yoga class or a session in the art barn, I’m there.
I haven’t stayed overnight or taken a workshop yet, but one day, I will. For now, it’s a dreamy day trip that leaves me feeling like I’ve self-actualized a little more each time.
McWay Falls - No trip to Big Sur is complete without a stop at McWay Falls. This iconic waterfall is basically the cover girl of the coast and thankfully, it’s just a short and easy walk from the parking lot. It’s especially magical at sunset when the light hits the cove just right. That said, be prepared: it can get crowded (think tour bus energy), so the earlier you go, the better. And if the fog rolls in heavy, you might not see the falls at all just part of the Big Sur gamble. Still, when the view’s clear, it’s postcard-perfection.
Phoenix Shop - Tucked just below Nepenthe, The Phoenix Shop is one of my favorite spots to browse. It’s the kind of place where you’ll find books, gifts, cards, and all those beautifully curated things you didn’t know you needed—but absolutely do. The jewelry selection is always on point, and there’s a great little Pendleton section my husband can never resist. If you’re looking for a peaceful, lovely shopping moment in Big Sur, this is it.
The lighthouse looking other worldly
I brake for lighthouses
You walk up to the top of the lighthouse which is a breathtaking view once you get there
The lighthouse giving Harry Potter vibes
Self reflection vibes at Esalen
The Art Barn!
Heading for a soak at Esalen
McWay Falls poster girl